Personal: Ancient Tannery of Fes, Morocco
Located within the UNESCO world heritage site that is the Moroccan Medina of Fes, Chouara is considered to be among the oldest leather tanneries in the word that is still in operation. For over a thousand years, various leather goods have been produced and sold at this site using only traditional methods of production. Multiple families have owned and operated on the site for generations and it has been passed down over the years. Chouara is comprised of a collection of semi-round wells that are filled with various liquids in which the hides are processed. Some of the wells are filled with a white liquid, which is a mixture of pigeon feces, donkey urine, salt, calcium oxide, and water. The hides are softened while they soak in this concoction, and are then beaten to a pulp by hand and foot before they are colored in surrounding vats which are filled with dyes. The red color is derived from poppy flower, blue from an indigo flower and yellow from saffron. Because saffron can be expensive, yellow hides are often dyed by hand, while other hides are soaked in the wells to absorb their color. After soaking in the vats for a period of around three days the hides are trimmed, laid out to dry, and brought inside where the are cut and sewed together into products that are later shipped around the world. While it is extremely difficult to navigate the maze-like Medina in Fes, you can tell when you are nearing the tannery due to the distinct smell that the site gives off. Multiple leather goods shops surround the tannery and visitors can enjoy a bird-eye view of the operation by entering any one of the stores. Shopkeeper will give tourists a mint leaf to make the stench more bearable.
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